Gagner à se perdre – PCT n°2

Jour 1 / Près de l’eau, près de l’au-delà

La forêt a enfilé son linceul. Imposante présence, des noirs, bleus charbons, argents,  la pluie sature d’orange les couleurs restantes. L’ensemble couvert de blanc, d’un blanc gris _ fin du monde / La route de Cormac McCarty sans les cannibales. C’est beau mais c’est la désolation. Des hectares de brûlés. Au bout de trois quart d’heures de marche nous voulons en sortir. La forêt a enfilé son linceul,  laissons la faire son deuil, déjà les jeunes pousses s’agitent.

5h que nous marchons, forêts bordéliques obligeant à enjamber les troncs, clairières apaisantes, chemins boueux où les moustiques indiquent les marais, les paysages défilent au grès des pas et des gouttes d’eau. De l’eau insuffisante pour nos camel bag, un détour d’une petite heure au programme pour se ravitailler à une source repérée sur la carte. Plaisir simple et gratuit.

16 miles sous la pluie pour la première journée et quelques coins de ciel bleu en soirée pour nous faire espérer. Pas de feu. Nous nous prenons des douches toutes les 10 minutes. Repas et thé sur 30 cm² de sec, un peu de musique pour se détendre, la soirée ne s’éternise pas à l’inverse de la pluie. 6 miles d’avance sur la deuxième journée.

Jour 2 / Cliff Lake

Au réveil les averses nous font traîner sous la tente. Nous n’avons que 2 heures de marche si tout se passe bien, mais il nous faut du soleil. Sinon nous devrons continuer à avancer.

21h près du feu. L’eau est dans le lac en face de nous et non dans le ciel. Enfin ! Depuis midi les nuages nous ont laissé du répit. L’étendue d’eau s’endort, la rivière ronronne. Une truite de temps en temps réveille les envies de pêches sauvages. Le bout de fil et l’hameçon trouvés sur un ancien campement n’ont pas suffi à nous ramener un apéro digne de ce nom.

Mériter un paysage, cela apaise. Plus de 20 miles en deux jours, les trois quarts sous la pluie, 19 kilos dans le sac, un poncho déchiré, des fringues alourdies par la flotte et la poussière, une grôle trempée. Peu importe Devil’s Peak a dévoilé son chapeau et Cliff Lake nos addictions de jump. Les colibris font vrombir leurs ailes au-dessus de nous, les truites restent revêches alors que le bois pétille dans les flammes. Seul au monde, là / un paysage qui se découvre / comme une récompense / cela apaise.

Jour 3 / Satan dans la neige

Nous nous étions un peu éloignés du tracé du PCT pour passer la nuit à Cliff Lake. Au vue du plan, continuer sur un chemin annexe pourrait nous faire rattraper le PCT rapidement sans alourdir le nombre de miles…au vue du plan.

De la neige, de la neige, de la neige et pas de sentier ! Les premiers kilomètres se sont déroulés tranquillement mais là nous commençons à comprendre pourquoi la montagne que nous abordons s’appelle Lucifer Peak ! Nous sommes sur le versant nord et à cette époque il y a encore de la neige…un sacré paquet même. Le chemin se cache sous cette blancheur…Lost ! Quelques centaines de mètres, soit 15 min de marche, où le doute planait, c’est sur nous avons perdu le trail.

Carte, boussole, altimètre. Les sacs se posent sur la neige, inspection des alentours. Carte, boussole. Nous envisageons de suivre la courbe que le tracé emprunte, incertitude. La voie parait compliquée. Si ce n’est pas de la neige ce sont multitudes de caillasses à l’équilibre précaire qui habillent le flanc abrupt de la montagne. Carte, Boussole, souvenir des conseils d’un oncle : « Une fois sur le trail, ne le quittez jamais, jamais ! » Carte, boussole, demi-tour vers le dernier indice de chemin. Une demi-heure d’hésitation, mais devant nous les quelques mètres de terres visibles paraissent être un sentier.

La dernière partie de la montée se fera à l’instinct. Entre chaque bout de terre, borne d’espoir du sentier, des centaines de pas s’enfonçant dans la couche neigeuse. Un bâton pris à la montagne vient accompagner notre équipement. La neige vient titiller nos cuisses. Les crevasses nous font quelques frayeurs, le paysage nous laisse rêveur. 3 miles / 3 heures, nous avons vaincu le diable mais il nous reste à minima 8 miles au programme et plus aucune certitude quant à l’état du chemin.

Pour le bonheur de nos jambes se sera le seul passage vraiment compliqué…quelques temps après nos âmes en redemanderaient tellement l’ascension était vivifiante. L’insouciance nous fera faire un second détour d’une heure, peu dérangeant. Des anciennes traces de bâtons, sur une plaque ayant fondue dans la journée, feront goûter à Matt les joies d’un toboggan dangereux à flanc de falaise. « Et si je saigne ça donne des points en plus ?!!! »

Journée éreintante. Un ancien campground découvert au dernier moment. Plaque de neige survivante prête à être bouillie et filtrée et nuée de moustiques au menu du soir. Le matin suivant le premier réflexe sera de rallumer le feu pour chasser ces myriades de nuisibles.

Jour 4 / Habitude

Objectif : Fourmil Lake, le temps clément nous fait pousser des ailes. Nous aurons le droit de reposer nos pieds dans l’eau fraîche dès l’après-midi. Autour du lac, trailers et pêcheurs, nous n’avions croisé que 3 personnes en 2 jours, le début de civilisation n’incite pas à rester, malgré les quelques discussions sympathiques : « Il vous reste pas mal de route, vous voulez un ride ? » « Non, nous marchons» Incompréhension. Il nous reste une dernière nuit avant de descendre dans la vallée, nous préférons refuser le lac pour goûter à la solitude un dernier soir.

19h les pas défilent sous les attaques sauvages de moustiques, hormis le sentier lui-même, rien aux alentours ne semble pouvoir accueillir notre campement sur ce flanc de montagne pentu. Oubliant le dénivelé, nous gardons un bon rythme, conscient que si aucun spot ne nous semble correct, le parcours se finira à la lampe frontale. Le ciel se dévoile de plus en plus, les arbres se clairsèment légèrement, un dernier virage. Vide. 20h30, le soleil tombe, la vallée s’étend en face de nous, nous grimpons un dernier promontoire, vue splendide, apéro, le sunset laisse place à un son et lumière dans la vallée. Les éclairs épicent nos nouilles chinoises, les étoiles relèvent le goût du thé. Nous dormirons là, la tente coincée entre le chemin et la caillasse.

Nuit 4 / Une nuit rongée

Craquement de branches (ou de tronc ?), frétillement autour de la tente, un rongeur semble vouloir s’amuser avec nos bouteilles qui traînent dehors. Lumière / chanter / crier. Extinction des lampes… krrr, krrr, bruit de plastique. Ce jeu dure quelques minutes. Un AVNI (animal vivant non identifié) passe par-dessus la tente en pliant la toile. Une biche alerte ? Une patte d’ours ? Un rongeur qui fait du toboggan ? Lumière / chanter / crier… avant l’exclamation fatidique : « Il m’a pris une chaussette ??!!! L’enfoiré il m’a piqué une chaussette ! je te jure je la trouve pas ! ». Nous quittons les duvets pour partir à la recherche de chaussettes, de rongeurs ou d’indices à 2h du matin. Les paroles résonnent dans le ciel, histoire d’éloigner les potentiels ours (l’harmonica est trop loin dans le sac). Crainte pour le sac de bouffe que nous avons laissé entre deux rochers sur le pic suivant. « ‘tain tu vois il avait ma chaussette ! le §*%*µ£ il a essayé de la bouffer ! » Paco jette vainement des pierres dans ce qu’y semble être une cachette de rongeur. Gentil vengeance pour ces heures de sommeil en moins. Les sacs s’engouffrent à l’intérieur de notre ridicule tente. 2 sacs, 2 hommes baraqués, la nuit est compacte.

Jour 5 / Grisés

Le sac de bouffe a été rongé, le pain est foutu, mais le café au sommet de la montagne efface aisément cette anecdote. Dernière descente. Le backpack se fait léger. Nous profitons de ces ultimes instants loin du monde. Une première route bitumée guide notre envie vers une première gorgée de bière pour fêter ça, toute motivation est bonne pour se retour à la civilisation.

Lake of the Wood s’étend devant les bières, salade et PC pour vider les témoignages de notre première rando. Les sacs (et notre propreté ?) attirent les sourires et un serveur affable. Un groupe s’installe sur une scène un peu plus loin. L’endroit nous convient bien pour une pause, mais le planning est serré. Cartons sur la table, les pancartes se préparent en attendant la motivation pour rejoindre les bords de route. « OCEAN », « GRANDPASS », « :) », quelques dessins naïfs, « Funky Road ». Rejoindre l’océan rapidement et se poser pour rafraîchir les sacs, les fringues et les bonhommes. Voilà le programme qui tourne dans nos têtes alors que les bières débrident le manège de nos pensées.

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